04-09-11
Momma said there’d be days like this
140,8 Miles
I leave Merriweather Lewis park along Natchez Trace planing to go to
Florence & Muscle Shoals, Al and maybe even Tupelo, Ms today. (I may
stay the night short of Tupelo at a campsite along the Trace called
Tishomingo).
I take the Trace about 40 miles and see a turnoff
for Florence just past Collinwood. It’s Highway 13. I should have known
better than to take it. Less than 2 miles down the raod I pass a car ,
the front seat area of which is fully engulfed in flames. People
observing from both the front & rear of the sedan. Like a cookout. I
leave it to their capable hands and drive forward towards Florence. As
soon as I cross the state line from Tennessee into Alabama the road
designation changes to Highway 17 and I follow it. I pass a sign saying
I’ve entered Florence, but it still seems a bit “rustic” for what I was
expecting. I stop at a General store and ask the older woman behind the
counter wearing adenim shirt with the sleeves neatly cut off and denim
shorts just below the knee about where I could find a place with wifi - a
McDonalds or Chic-Fil-A .
She says that if I just follow the road I’ll find it.
I do.
I get connected to the internet and find David Hungate has given me
people I can contact about the studios there and get an interview for
Alabama (which I have missed along with New Mexico).
I attempt to
contact Roger Hawkins, but find my phone is no longer in service. I
guess I waited too long to switch to a different phone provider. I DO
own them, But I have been trying to select a replacement “Pay as you go”
phone that was not on a contract or connected to AT&T. Plus funds
have been difficult to generate lately and I had to choose between a
place to sleep or gas money and paying last months bill, the phone lost
out.
And now I’ve lost out - of a great opportunity to talk with someone who was directly involved with both studios in their prime.
I’m going to at least get pictures of the studios before I go into Mississippi.
I ask the people in the McDonalds how to get across the river to Mucle
Shoals from here. I get directions, but they are heavily dependant on
landmarks and pretty vague on street names.
I try to get google
maps to help out but for some reason everything on the computer is going
slow or my inverter shuts off (I’m presuming because of heat and
humidity).
I take wood street and try to follow the directions I
was given but also remember a brief glimps of the online map that showed
I could take Tennessee St. which was a block or two before the Dr.Hicks
Street, so I do that and that takes me to Court St.
As soon as I
make the turn, mid block is a sign for the W.C.Handy home & museum.
(At first I think it’s directing my to go thru the bank drive thru. I
drive down the street indicated by the sign (I think) and eventually
(they could have used another sign to assure people it was still ahead) I
get there. I take a few pictures and think maybe I can get a brochure
or something while I’m there. I can’t take the tour because of Mischa
and the cost and I’m already “On a Mission”. The door is locked, thought
the sign says it should be open. I walk back to the car and the dor
opens and the woman says she forgot it was still locked. I guess I was
the first visitor of the day. I get a few items to read about and then
head across the wide Tennessee River. The Muscle Shoals Recording studio
is closest…and it’s not in Muscle Shoals. I actually drive past it but
come back and catch it. Two guys (carpenters) are working on it. I
confirm that it is (or was ) the Studio location.
I head into
Muscle Shoals proper and down to Avalon and it’s RIGHT THERE! One
business off the corner and touting “where it all began”. It looks fully
functional and surprisingly out of place amidst all the retail
businesses and traffic out the front door. It’s like a freakin’ Jack in
the box!
I try to fix the phone problem by getting a phone at the
Walmart. I go there and ask questions and am told to go to the Florence
lacation for a better phone than they had to offer at this store. I get
two sets of directions from the salesperson and a customer who was
standing by waiting. I get lots of “Directions by landmark” and not
streets. The woman says to take “this street all the way to “Willard”
and go over the bridge. Take the first right. Follow that road till it
curves by the water treatment plant - follow it up till you see it on
top of the hill on the left. You can’t miss it”
People often discount my ability to “Miss it”!
First I confirmed the one street name she gave me W-I-L-L-A-R-D? No Wheeler!
Ah.
I drive down “that road till it dead ends. No Wheeler. There’s a Wilson
and a Webster that might have looked like they could at some point have
lead to another bridge across the Tennessee river than the one I came
across (from Court St in Florence.)
So I give it up and head back to get to the Trace and head into Mississippi to begin that week.
I take the wrong road. Oh, it will get me there, but instead of joining
the Trace in Mississippi, I have gone back to the Road that takes me
into Tennessee.
Oh Well, I get to cross the state line and Tennessee River for the third time today.
I decide to just pass thru Tupelo tomorrow on the way to Clarksdale and stay the night in Tishomingo State Park.
I pick the spot. It’s lovely and close to the Bathrooms with a shower (I can shave!)
I pay for the site, go back and put up the tent and as I’m settling
in…a couple with their very young child take the spot just next to me.
Groovy.
The very young child is prone to temper tantrums which both parents indulge.
I go into the small town of Tishoming, a little over 3 miles from camp.
It is a very small, very old town. Maybe 3-6 intersections. The general
store has wifi…and a reasonable rate for gas ($3.54) I get 15 gals and
pay for a bag of ice that I’ll pick up before I leave. Fine. But I want
to get $2.00 in quarters because the soda machine at camp is dispensing
sodas for only .50c. Unheard of! I get my soda refilled for FREE at the
general store, but they can’t give cash back. I’m directed to a store I
can’t see. “See the silver truck over there? Its’ beyond that!)
“Sunflower market” And they will give cash back with a pruchase. I buy
an orange and a reduced bottle of Simply Fresh “Limeaide”.
I have my internet, a short drive, Ice - I’m a happy man!
Back at camp I return and the neighbors are gone - the tents are still
there, but no ones home. I put things away, get a little meal for Mischa
& Myself and start to type up past notes. The neighbors return
with another couple and their child. The other child is slightly older
and better behaved. The toddler is a terror.
I end up going in to
write as the kid’s baying is jut too much. Eventually they take the kid
away in the van to hush him up. I guess it was past his bedtime and he
was jut cranky (good - two of us!)
The adults stayed up talking till after 11pm by the fire. (I clocked ‘em.)
Next morning I was prepared to pack up early and go. Just finish off
the writing from the night before and head off. But the brat is up early
too. And roving (mostly) unrestrained.
The car is packed I take the shower and shave and off we go. (Thankfully!)
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